Forum Replies Created
December 30, 2018 at 1:09 am in reply to: Alfa AWUS036ACH not working on Kali-Raspberry Pi 3 #13581
I am getting a lot of errors and similar problems using an Alfa AWUS052NH it’s dual band and long story short here are the specs which are fairly similiar (or close enough to have the same issue which seems like SOFTWARE when it’s actually ***HARDWARE*** whether it be using Kali any version or Raspbian or whatever OS for the Raspberry pi’s).
USB 2.0 Wi-Fi Adapter w/2x 5dBi External Antennas – 2.4GHz 300Mbps/5GHz 867Mbps – 802.11a/b/g/n.
These Wifi dongles use a TON OF POWER! You can hear mine make a high pitch tone when its firing all cylinders “WORKING” multiple channels. Often it even causes a Kernel Panic upon booting or will randomly shutdown or freeze the Raspberry pi again regardless of operating system. Same exact issues your having which I have successfully used it many times but it fails just as much which lately the newest Kali image it DOES NOT LIKE for some reason!
LONG STORY SHORT, here is the solution:
You can monitor how much power it uses in a variety of ways which can even cause the WiFi adapter to have mediocre results on a true desktop or laptop, let alone a small cheap micro computer.
Get this cable (Alfa actually included a similar cable in the AWUS052NH first models it sold but later stopped including it!):
HIGHROCK 30cm USB 2.0 a Power Enhancer Y 1 Female to 2 Male Data Charge Cable Extension Cord(1pc) which you can buy for $6 here https://www.amazon.com/HIGHROCK-Enhancer-Female-Charge-Extension/dp/B00NIGO4NM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1546091616&sr=8-3&keywords=usb+y+cable+power
This will plug into the wifi cards usb male end “splitting” the USB cable into a dedicated POWER USB male plug and a dedicated DATA USB male plug. Then you’ll need something like this which is a rock solid product:
AUKEY USB Hub Powered Charging, 7 Port USB 3.0 Hub with 3 Charging Ports, 4 USB 3.0 Data Ports, 12V/3A Power Adapter, Power Switch for Laptop, PC, Mac, HDD Hard Drive (Black) which you can buy here :
T L D R : Your WiFi adapter is sucking to much power from the raspberry pi and needs a completely separate power supply to run or run optimally on any raspberry pi OS it solves all the problems your having!
PS= I am not affiliated or selling any of these products I am just trying to be helpful to show you the best options for the best prices which I have found to solve all my solutions aka not spamming hope you realize everyone 🙂
This is the EXACT case and 2.2 TFT I am using which the the author provides a script that can be copiped/pasted into Raspbian Lite running Kismet, which I have not been able to honestly get to work myself and OVERALL I am trying to use this case and TFT with specifically a Sticky Finger’s Kali Pi build.
Try an ANKER brand battery bank. I have 2 different models of them, 1 which only has 1 USB output which provides 2.4 amps of power and another which provides 2.7 amps.
The best solution would be to buy a “Quick Charge 3.0 AUKEY 60W USB Charger with 6-Port USB Charging Station”. It has 4 USB ports for data transfer and 2 specifically for charging/providing power through USB. Buy an OTG Y cable in which you can plug in your Alfa antenna into THEN plug 1 end into the Aukey USB data port and the other end into 1 of the USB power ports. Now you will have your Alfa card running on it’s own power supply while still transmitting data to the pi without any software “hacks/config’s”!
Happy Hacking 🙂April 9, 2018 at 10:37 pm in reply to: What do I wrong with the installation of "Pre-configured disk image" #13024
Use either the “newer” or “next” kernel INSTEAD of the “old” kernel…
To make things easy as a non seasoned linux user, you should download the “PRE-CONFIGURED STICKY FINGER’S IMAGE” for your raspberry pi. This includes the kernel along with many “behind the scene’s” configuration already set up for YOUR ease.
If you cannot get the LCD to work after installing it correctly THEN it could very easily be a defect in your LCD screen! I love Adafruit product’s but I have had a 3.5 inch Pi TFT+ not work no matter WHAT I DID… I spent hours upon hours trying to get the LCD to work properly BUT IT JUST SHOWED WHITE with occasionally blinking black upon certain times. The problem was the gold color “ribbon” that connects to the actual LCD glass screen to the PCB board the glass sits on had been bent or somehow moved in a way that damaged the connection… This is the most common problem if your just stuck always on a “white display”…. UNLESS your not properly installing the kernel/lcd setup.
I suggest you download Raspbian Stretch from raspberrypi.org THEN with your LCD mounted onto your raspberry pi follow these instructions which are literally COPY THEN PASTE… If your screen does not work after using this quick and easy guide/kernel THEN you know your screen is broke… If your screen WORKS then you know your INSTALLING IT WRONG… Follow the directions on the link below to test it on Raspbian as suggested:
MAKE SURE YOU SELECT “3.5 INCH SCREEN” when prompted as the kernel works on almost all adafruit screens…
Found my answer, disregard this post…
Try starting over flashing a new image onto your micro sd card then carefully re-install. What your experiencing seems ‘odd’ as in the errors/issues your having… Unless you have changed something in the /boot/config.txt that would alter the 9 button menu or have tweaked with the menu.py scripts I don’t know why this would be happening…
You could lower the fps from 30 to 20 along with lowering the speed to 320000 (or even as low as 160000 for testing) but this doesn’t seem like a lcd display issue output issue…
This is probably not the answer you were looking for but sometimes going through an install we miss/overlook or simply do things in a certain “sequence” which as whacky as it sounds 1 LCD screen from the same manufactor same model same size can give errors/need a different set up initally especially Adafruit products.
Throw in the new kernel while your at it and start from scratch IMO.
If reducing the frequencies doesn’t work I would suggest try/buy another power supply. I have a few different Alfa wifi adapters which the AWUS036ACH and my AWUS052NH constantly give me problems even with certain power supplies rated at 5 volt 3 amp for certain brands…
If your running the pi 3 alone a 5 volt 3 amp power supply I would highly recommend over a 2.1-2.4 amp (you’ll notice a H U G E difference in what seems like pi 3 is just “loading”/”processing” slower than a traditional computer) because the pi 3 throttles itself and is “laggy” when under powered, which Kali Linux does not have any “voltage” OR “heat” warning icons that will appear on the screen as does Raspbian.
Try out a 5 volt 3.0 amp power supply from a company called “North Pada” or something very similar, you can get them on amazon with an on/off switch or just standard power supply. I have 4 of them now and have had NO ISSUES running my pi 3’s with “sticky-fingers” with LCD’s from 2.2-5 inch (disabled screensaver/shutoff), always 1-3 USB wifi adapters including your model, USB gps dongle, USB sdr dongle, sometimes a Bluetooth sniffer, and a Rii mini keyboard. No problems at all and work on all the default frequencies… Zippy overall speed and monitor mode/packet injection works fine (not as good as I would like but that’s a hardware limitation).
You can edit the entire LCD display and “Kali-Pi” 9 button menu.
Go to /home/pi/Kali-Pi/Menus/ using the file manager. Every python script aka file ending in “.py” is part of the Kali-Pi LCD set up including the complete 9 button set up. You can simply click on them to modify the current config/command script OR remove/add your own python config/commands.
Remember, if you just “modify” Re4son’s menu(s) and script you’ll need to change the menu to however many NEW buttons you have (default it’s 9 buttons)… Pretty obvious but a simple thing I overlooked and could not figure out why my “tweaking” of his menu’s would not work because of that simple little change I forgot…
I have been learning/tinkering with raspberry pi’s and linux for a few years now… I would still consider myself a “noob”/”rookie” I will admit. There is SO MUCH you can learn and you will NEVER STOP learning. You should pick 1, just 1 project, you wish to create/build/successfully create with your raspberry pi then go for it! It’s very satisfying, fun, great learning, and you can later contribute your “build/creation” to other’s just like Re4son’s kernel/images! Imagine how many thousands upon thousands of people have been able to not only use Kali Linux on a pi zero, use Kali Linux with not just a FOOL PROOF LCD setup guide for TONS of different screens, not only made the LCD display the Kali default GUI but the 9 button “sticky-finger’s” menu is amazingly cool, threw in bluetooth support/updates that were well needed along with firmware for MANY Wifi adaptors not previously support (or did not work out of “the box”), and last but not least… set up the “pre-configured” images with things such as SSH, VNC, configured a ton of stuff “behind the scene’s” to make a “noob” or seasoned linux expert be able to literally plug/play within 30 minutes using what I find to be one of the most challenging distro’s to learn/config….
Set up your WIFI via command line as the step by step directions can be found on the Re4son Kernel page at the very bottom…
1. systemctl disable network-manager && systemctl stop network-manager
2. Follow the remaining steps FOR YOUR NETWORK!
3. The pi will boot by default to that network upon startup, HOWEVER, when set up your LCD with Re4son’s pitft setup plus guide you will be switching the pi’s LCD to boot as user “kali-pi” even if you are connected via SSH logged in as “ROOT” with password “TOOR” which you should have changed/do so now…. THEN…
4. REPEAT STEP 1 to MANUALLY SET UP WIFI FOR “KALI-PI” as you did for “ROOT” user previously.
Tip: Add any addition networks in wpa_supplicant.conf that you plan on, wish to, or will connect to in the future as long as you know the PSK… For example I add my gym’s wifi network’s (2.4 and 5 ghz) while I’m at home so when I go workout the handy tiny little sticky fingers pi setup is sniffing PLUS already knows to connect to my gym’s network 🙂
FYI: When you run “systemctl disable network-manger && systemctl stop netowrk-manager” REALIZE you will be BOOTED from your SSH connection as “ROOT” to the pi which again is logging in now as user “kali-pi” SO MAKE SURE YOU HAVE AN HDMI SCREEN OR CAT 5/6 CABLE TO USE THE GUI OR SSH VIA “.LOCAL” (REQUIRING NO INTERNET OR GUI RATHER PUTTY/SSH) THEN ONCE YOU MANUALLY SET UP WIFI FOR “KALI-PI” REBOOT AND YOUR GOLDEN!!!
If your at your home then just use your laptop(s) you mentioned you own. If your not already connected to your homes network then do that ON YOUR LAPTOP via wifi or Ethernet cable (I’m assuming you are already running the laptops(s) connected to your home network for internet access)…
Then open your web browser and type in 192.168.0.1 or 192.168.1.1 with no https://, .com., etc… This will load your home routers login page which will have two fields one for a username and one for a password. Unless you have changed these (typically majority of people never do nor have a clue how to get to this point) your password is most likey “admin” and your password “password”. Some routers from different manufacturers can be different such as Netgear is “admin” and “password” OR “1234”, if these don’t work for you then try leaving the fields blank then select login which if that doesn’t work google your router brand/model default password and if you did or someone changed it reset your router manually.
Once logged in to your routers config settings in your browser click on the tab for whichever way you are connecting to the internet (LAN or WIFI)… Once that tab loads then there will be a menu on the page with one tab that should say “CLIENT LIST” which click on that tab as this will tell you ALL the “devices” connected to your network including their device “name” and also it will show their IP ADDRESS.
Assuming your using Re4son’s image or kernel the raspberry pi will be listed as “kali-pi” then copy the IP address that it uses… If you DON’T have your pi connected to the internet yet then use Re4son “step by step guide” (not sure if you have a monitor or HDMI access as your post wasn’t clear on that which if you don’t have an EXTERNAL SCREEN/MONITOR) you need a minimum a cat5/6 cable to plug into your pi then router OR into your pi then laptop OR get creative using your cellphones hotspot, use windows 10 hotspot feature, etc.
And if you can successfully install, load, use raspbian then you can just find your ip address for your pi by connecting to your home network via wifi in raspbian (remove external wifi adapters for ease of this step) so connect to wlan0 in raspbian then open the termnial and type in “ifconfig” which will show wlan0’s ip address. This is the IP address for your onboard wifi chip on your raspberry pi WHICH WILL NOT CHANGE, write that ip down. Reflash sticky fingers armf image on your sd card when finished set up wifi via command let from Re4sons step by step guide or use the GUI interface this is all assuming you have a HDMI display if not resort back to connecting the pi to your computer with a cat5/6 cable or USB serial cable to start a SSH session which is the OVERALL GOAL I am trying to help you get to….
Once you SSH into your pi you can do ALL the setup/installation/config/etc. to make your LCD work upon rebooting. Best part is with an SSH connection from your laptop you can just copy and paste Re4son’s instructions without having to type anything….
🙂 Good luck and keep trying as it’s cool to have Kali on a pi but AMAZING to have the sticky-fingers image with all the goodies plus thing’s preset for us less experienced nerds.
I have been on a journey learning all realms of “ethical hacking” and at first I tried EVERY distro/OS from parrot, black arch, using “default/generic” iso/image’s primarily Debian based then “building” it to my personal preferences, and yada yada yada…
To answer your question, it’s possible with a catch… Unless you find someone who has the same exact setup as you (hardware/software/settings/etc) THEN has spent their hard precious time compiling, customizing, debugging, coding/programming themselves to make as many tools/features/setting compatible, testing the build, debugging/fixing the build hiccups, and ALL the other things involved with such a “project”… Your essentially going to be building your own “distro”.
Google is your best friend as you probably have also found people are not necessarily being “rude” but your asking a question with a pretty easy answer which I think I covered, possible with time/lots of work/don’t expect everything to work… Why not stick to black Arch or whatever distro/OS that has the most compatible tools you want (seem’s you like black arch obviously) then add on some Kali tools OR just use BOTH loaded onto even a USB stick with a selectable boot loader if your using?
To do what your asking would require TIME which unless you can find someone like “Re4son” who is willing to spend hundreds or thousands of hours over a few years constantly tweaking/building/updating a Kali Linux image w/ a no brainer step by step guide for TFT setups (plus so much more)… Finding a “black Arch” unicorn mastermind like him is slim to none. People will gladly build you something exactly as your wanting if your not willing to put in the time yourself OR if you lack the knowledge (which again not being “rude”) but if you can’t figure out how to do this question your asking yourself with some help from google then maybe you should learn and not try to “major in the minors”… I’m guilty myself of trying to do SIMILIAR builds as you when in reality I don’t know the MINOR behind the scene’s workings enough to properly use these tool’s or distro’s which is completely counterproductive.
Not the answer you were looking for I’m sure and your not going to find a laid out guide or downloadable image/package of your “want’s” anywhere online. Within just learning “ethical hacking” or pen-testing whatever you want to call it info is going to be very basic because it can be used for illegal purposes and it’s MUCH MORE knowledge required than say asking/finding out how to run Kismet properly on a Raspbian wheezy, jessie, or stretch image…
Download Re4son’s image(s)/kernel(s) and load black arch on a USB stick or micro SD card use berryboot or refind on a desktop then just toggle back and forth between distro’s as needed… Need both at the same time? Run 2 pi’s or computers with each distro at once and ssh or integrate them to share desktops to use Kali tools with Arch tools at the same time 🙂
Way to long of a response but hopefully it will keep you from searching for a “magic pill” that doesn’t exist with “little or no time” as you said in your life to invest in such a build which before you hop to every other forum asking the same question with your time…
Fluxion has been not working for over a year now and is not been fixed or resolved which who know’s could be causing an error…
You said your set up is “simple” and “(just the kernel)”… Did you download, unzip, put the kernel in correct directory, etc?
Adafruit 3.5 inch tft screens like Re4son has mentioned before are AWESOME and super high quality but they can be like a high maintence lady to please… They are picky, I have had 3 screens bought the same day all brand new ran on the same pi 3 that needed to be “finessed” each differently to work with Kali-Pi properly… ONCE you have a 3.5 inch tft plus from Adafruit running properly you should be set forever thought…
Try reading this post as I cannot tell if you have fully gotten Kali-Pi working with its full 9 button GREATNESS or if your stuck in a rut… Either way again I have had issues with 1 adafruit 3.5 that another would breeze along fine but then have a hiccup on a completely different problem so I would read this post I’m putting a link to and lower the speeds to 320000 and 20 fps (even if your working now I’ve had mine working but then failures after setup)… And lastly, are you apt-update && apt-upgrade BEFORE OR JUST
I have the exact same screen (a few actually) that I have working with sticky fingers pre made images along with others made from the “offical Offensive Security” image aka Re4son’s image minus tft-setup plus a pre-configured goodies… Anyways, I’ve had your EXACT same problem. Odd thing is that the Adafruit 3.5 tft plus seems to LOVE the raspberry pi zero (or zero W) more than the raspberry pi 3 for some reason… My advice is from months and months of tinkering PLUS help from Re4son, he might not advise messing with “his kernel” but I have adjusted/changed/added/removed every setting to enhance or out of curiosity.
First off, when your installing the LCD screen THIS IS MY ADVICE from personal experience… Load the image on an SD card then plug it into the pi 3 with the LCD hat ALREADY PLUGGED IN. Next, extend your SD card manually then reboot OR use gparted (in which you have to run apt-get update first prior to running apt-get install gparted then reboot. NOW, follow his exact instructions on cd’ing into the directory then mounting the boot partition and then run the the update command FIRST which is -u (a must for our screens). After that install the screen ./re4son-pi-tft-setup -t 35r -d /home/pi and when it ask “DO YOU WANT TEXT TO APPEAR ON THE LCD?” choose YES BUT DO NOT REBOOT if will ask but say NO!
Without rebooting, go to the next step, and set the screen to boot into command line ./re4son-pi-tft-setup -b cli AGAIN IT WILL ASK YOU IF YOU WISH TO REBOOT ***SELECT NO*** then move to the next step of auto login which is ./re4son-pi-tft-setup -a pi AGAIN IT WILL ASK YOU IF YOU WISH TO REBOOT ***SELECT NO***!!!
Now the LCD is set up but if you reboot at any time without or even with changing the /boot/config.txt or kali-pi menu config it will screw up the entire install in which worst case you can run ./re4son-pi-tft-setup -r to completely remove the LCD setup then start from scratch. Anyways, NOW after enabling auto login change config which you need to do nano /boot/config.txt then leave the rotation at 270 but a MUST is to downgrade the speed of the screen from 420000 to 320000 or even try 160000 for now AND the FPS=30 change to 20 save those options and exit that file. NOW enter the Kali-Pi menu setup by entering nano /home/pi/Kali-Pi/menu (make sure you enter NANO first) then in this menu change the screen size from 2.8 to 3.5 then by default you will see the TFT is setup up to be used by touch aka =1 for the use of a mouse or mini keyboard change to 2… Change this to 2 FOR NOW!
NOW reboot, and after 10-15 seconds you will be welcomed by the initial text commands as the system loads then see a Kali linux icon then POOF the 9 button TFT setup. I’m assuming you have already made it this far as you have explained in your OP but NOW is when I have great experiences with now:
Start from the beginning and cd /usr/local/src/re4son-kernel_4*
mount /dev/mmcblk0p1 /boot
nano cd /boot/config.txt and change the 3200000 or 1600000 you initially changed back to 4200000 (I’ve even been up to 5000000 successfully doing it this step by step way) and change the frames per second back to =30 (I have no had any luck going any higher than this just adjust it back to 30 at this point then leave it which is good for this size screen). Now you can leave the rest of this config as it is OR you can uncomment to overclock the SD card where Re4son has made it obvious and I have been even going a few steps further adding in force_turbo=1 and over_voltage=6 which will void your pi’s warranty but for a pi 3 or pi zero this seems to help or maybe its in my head… I have also added in arm_freq=1350, core_freq=500, gpu_mem=350, over_voltage=8, temp_limit=90, and so on but that’s all up do you as it doesn’t seem to change the performance much or if any at all that I can notice (or the functioning of the Kali-Pi menu).
Then go into your nano /home/pi/Kali-Pi/menu and change the “use of a mouse” on the touchscreen aka =2 to using the actual touchscreen aka =1 and any additional preferences you have like the screensaver or pin lock but do this and save exit then reboot.
Reboot with the HDMI cord UNPLUGGED and initially I keep my external WiFi adapters unplugged until my screen is set up silk smooth. You should also be SSH’ing into your pi as ROOT not as PI in which any changes that create a “blank white screen” you can simply go into the /boot/config.txt to change values you tweaked then reboot to working LCD.
Sorry for the L O N G reply to everyone but I have been messing with trying to run Kali Linux successfully on a pi 2 orignially long ago then I found Re4son over a year ago and started using his images/kernels/advice on my pi 3’s and pi zero/zero w’s. I had probably done this install whether it be vanilla kali pi, sticky fingers pi, or raspbian jessie with kismet for war driving/walking over 200+ times with a box trashed SD cards that have been flashed to death :).
If you follow this guide ESPECIALLY for the Adafruit 3.5 inch TFT plus (which 3.5 inches on a LCD makes a BIG difference in terms of speed of image refreshing/display output even compared to a 2.8 inch Adafruit screen which seems no big deal but it is hence why people who build custom Gameboy builds DO NOT USE 3.5 inch TFT RES or CAP type screen as they are to slow refreshing images in games so they opt for 3.5 inch HDMI screens) personally I have found the 2.2 inch screen size to be my favorite as the form factor is so small which I can carry in a case with a battery pack fit inside my case or plug into a external power bank with 2.2 inches being “small” some might add you have to figure out what is the “PURPOSE” of your build… Is this a pen testing device or pocket sized packaged you wish to be able to carry in a pocket or in public without wires dangling everywhere or carrying a big case with a bigger screen with multiple wifi antenna’s sticking out as some people will think you look like a guy walking around with a “bomb” (yes this has happened to me) yada yada yada or is this just a setup you are going to pretty much keep at home plugged into an a/c outlet maybe take in the car a few times….?
From all my experimenting if your TOUCHSCREEN is having issues you either did not follow instructions properly from Re4son or in this case trying out mine OR YOU HAVE A POWER ISSUE! Kali Linux does not have all the “cute and neat” little icons that pop up like Raspbian letting you know your temp limit has been hit or your under powered with a lightning bolt…. On a raspberry pi 3 you should have a 2.5 amp 5 volt a/c power cord WITHOUT USING AN LCD OR HIGH POWERED USB WIFI ADAPTER!!! With a LCD and/or with just 1 USB WiFi adapter you NEED a FULL 3 AMP 5 volt a/c power cord or battery bank! You may not get any “icons” or realize that your touchscreen is not working with TOUCH CAPABILITIES because you are under powered! I know this again from personal experience… I can run say a Panda Pau05 tiny wifi usb dongle without any problems, occassoinally run into problems with high powered cards like 95% of your Alfa type cards with 5 dbi antenna’s, and cannot properly use the pi 3 at all (even without an LCD) running an Alfa AWUS052NH as it’s a dual band noise making (literally hearing it’s high pitch sound when running) without freezing/not booting/or constant reboots with any distro. Moral of the story make sure your POWERED properly and for bluetooth support, external wifi chips, gps usb adaptors, sdr kits, etc… Remember this is a $30-35 or a $5 computer chip which even with the B E S T software or kernels compiled it can only do so much… If your your serious about getting bluetooth reception then get a 4.0 USB bluetooth dongle especially if you have a case on your pi metal or not and get a powered USB hub for all the accessories. You’ll be suprised at how fast your pi runs then and how it runs “PROPERLY”…
T L D R:
Follow re4son’s setup for the LCD WITHOUT REBOOTING AT ALL DURING THE ENTIRE INITIAL SET UP AND CHANGING THE /boot/config.txt to lower speeds and the kali-pi menu to USE YOUR MOUSE aka option =2 INITIALLY. REBOOT, as the screen will work properly THEN GO BACK AND CHANGE THE SETTINGS to what the were by DEFAULT and change your kali-pi menu to use the touch function not mouse aka =1! Adafruit screens are amazing quality but they (especially this 3.5 TFT PLUS is a freak) which it will work just have to do this “WORKAROUND” initially then change it back to faster speeds which you shouldn’t ever have to change again!!!February 5, 2018 at 11:06 am in reply to: apt-update && apt-upgrade FAILING w/ kernel = SOLUTION #12730
Awesome thank you for your quick response 🙂 I am using a macbook pro retina with the crazy UEFI system which doesn’t like grub, refind, or many bootloaders which I successfully installed Clover bootloader then grub automatically installed twice long story short I wiped the hardrive clean and installed kali linux and kali-linux-all with a boot of mac os high sierra plus trying out Parrot OS which I have had some fun with on my pi 3…. Thanks for the advice and I won’t be touching repo’s from now on lol…
Hmmm… Since the NH51 v2 has the same chipset as the NH52 I could figure out a way to power the NH51 v2 externally but why not go for the one made with that option already…? Plus it’s crazy dumb orange lambo color makes it looks cool with it’s not traditional “Alfa” shape combined with two 5 dbi antenna’s….
Just ordered 4 of them 🙂 I’ll let you know how the setup works!
FYI – If anyone here is seeking REAL AUTHENTIC ALFA wifi adapters for cheap prices that are truly authentic then check out newegg.com BUT MAKE SURE THE VENDOR YOU ARE BUYING FROM IS NAMED “ROKLAND”… I have bought all but 2 of my Alfa antenna’s from there all authentic for cheap $ 19-24 for a brand new sealed AWUSO36NHA with or others… NH 51 v2 is a bit more and NH 52 is only $ 39.99 if there is any left that is …. 🙂
Cheers!February 5, 2018 at 6:34 am in reply to: apt-update && apt-upgrade FAILING w/ kernel = SOLUTION #12726
Sounds great! You are the expert so I am just curious about two things from your honest professional opinion with years of experience…
Would adding other “repo’s” not manually to the actual repo file list as you reccomend in part of the “Vanilla Kali Pi *RED PILL*” step by step guide… I ruined or had to start over on at least a dozen builds from manually tinkering with the repo mirros in the actual file. However, I have been having success using the “tips” straight from offensive security’s website to add repo’s through command line. This is probably unnecessary but for example one of my macbook pro’s I reinstalled Kali to triple boot mac plus win 10… Anyways……………
I added Kali linux “bleeding edge repo”, a “unnecessary Debian” (what they called it) repo, the https kali linux repo, and a few others via command line. Are all these overkill or what would you do in my shoes for example? The stock mirrors for kali rolling worked/work like a charm, am I just adding extra “fluff” to my machine?
Secondly, I know wifi adapters get talked about non stop everywhere which is the best, which is the most powerful, which is yada yada yada…
I have about a dozen different wifi adapters majority are authentic Alfa models which IMO the AWUS036NHA is plug and play, has great distance/power even limited at 20dbm, and most importantly captures packets better than ANY other wifi adapter I have or have had…
Long story short, I wish I could my old trusty AWUS036H’s that are so damn powerful and “tweakable” captured packets better plug cover than just b/g networks… So, I’m looking to pull the trigger for a new project that will be running dual bands with 4-6 wifi adaptors split up dedicated to a few specific channels each. Obviously, I need a dual band adapter and I will need to supply external power to these 4-6 beast…
I read on the forums in some of your post your FAVORITE wifi adapter is the AWUS051NH V2… Have you tested out the AWUS052NH (the race car orange model which I believe is discontinued) by chance? The only reason I have my eye on the 52 vs the 51 V2 is it comes with an adapter that is a Y-cable to input 1 USB into your hub (in my case) and 1 USB you input into a power source again my hub with power ports… It would also seem to work great on pi’s as especially with a battery bank or ac/dc power USB input for no power drops with non stop packet injecting/capturing…. It seems to be pretty plug and plug as the 51NH V2 is also… So is the cool looking exterior with dual 5 dbi antenna’s plus the Y-cable for external power any better or would you stick with just the 51NH V2’s? Sorry for the L O N G completely unrelated questions but Kali-Pi got me into a rabbit hole with has now turned into learning a skills to apply to a new career field 🙂
Thanks in advance 🙂
Download the kernel the you are seeking on your computer then simply upload into your pi…
If your having trouble figuring out how to transfer the file (or any file(s) from your computer to your pi(s) or other devices) download “CyberDuck” which has versions for all operating systems…
Connect to your pi almost exactly as if you were ssh’ing into it but instead on CyberDucky choose “Open Connection” then a menu is presented in which from the drop down list of types of connections click on “SFTP (SSH File Transfer Protocol)” then connect to your pi. After your connected to the pi, choose the tab in CyberDucky “Upload” and select what file (re4son’s kernel in your case) you wish to upload then the next option is where in the pi do you wish to upload, /usr/local/src then continue following the step by step guide just omit the downloading part of the kernel.
Next check out getting a VPN or setting up proxychains to access this site along with download things directly to your pi PLUS keeping your anonymity especially when using.
A “simple” error that I don’t believe the OP had but many others including myself encounter regarding bluetooth connectivity in general or stay connected is this…
Make sure ALL your electronic devices that are BLUETOOTH CAPABLE are have “Bluetooth” overall set to “OFF”!!!
I have had issues with CONNECTING initially or STAYING CONNECTED simply because a phone, computer, tablet, smart TV, ipod, and even something like an amazon alexa echo… Sounds so simple but trust me even if you used for example a bluetooth keyboard, mouse, touchpad, keyboard with touchpad (Favi and Rii bluetooth keyboards along with an OEM apple magic keyboard) I had previously connected/paired with my computer in which even after going into my bluetooth settings then selecting “FORGET DEVICE/REMOVE DEVICE” so it wouldn’t conflict with trying to connect again causing problems with the raspberry pi zero w or raspberry pi 3 I found this to be a problem still… On my phones and computers I completely turned BLUETOOTH OFF and things started to connect/pair with the pi zero w’s and pi 3’s but something was acting flakey…
Two things that fixed the issue were I had a ridiculous Amazon Alexa Echo that I got as a gift for Christmas which I plugged in but never set up (actually forgot about it to be honest) but it was silently constantly searching for a device including via BLUETOOTH to connect with not that it was connecting but the interfering pairing request was throwing off my pi’s….
Unplugged the Amazon echo and everything was GREAT, well until I was charging my half dozen pi zero w’s with sticky fingers image w/ bluetooth plus my handful of pi 3’s with sticky fingers, raspbian, parrot os, or kodi were anywhere in the same vicinity it was chaos…
Moral of the story the bluetooth included in the kernel works great but bluetooth in general will try to pair or when a bluetooth device is “powered off” due to power-saving features I’ve noticed upon waking up again it sends out a contionous pairing “scan”.
Solution for me:
– Unistall bluetooth from the kernel in sticky fingers if your not using it and you have more than 1 pi zero w or pi 3.
– Turn off bluetooth FOR all phones, computers, ipods, Tv’s, google/amazon voice boxes, any roku/firestick/chromecast,smart TV, and so on. Get your pi paired and running successfully with whatever bluetooth device(s) you wish then start turning on bluetooth for other electronics 1 by 1 you may still find a culprit that when turned on throws off the pi’s bluetooth pairing…
And lastely, again I have had this problem SPECIFICALLY with Favi, Rii, Ipazzport, Logitech products of any kind from mice/touchpads/keyboards w/ touchpads and Apple OEM magic keyboards…. They will work and work perfectly if you do ALL OF THE ABOVE but they have as previously mentioned a “sleep timer” in them which upon waking even if they are ONLY SET TO YOUR Pi they will lose connection repeately in which you have to go through set up all over again.
IMO buy a USB wirless keyboard with touchpad as it will never have the issues with pairing and it’s literally plug and play….
Hope that helps…January 27, 2018 at 4:57 am in reply to: Sticky Fingers w/ Adafruit 3.5+ worked 2 times NOW FAILURE repeated… #12580
I found the /boot/config.txt file within the pi-tft-setup, changed the settings AS YOU RECOMMENDED exactly to slow the picture down a bit….
BOOM, working 110% FLAWLESSY on a pi zero w right now!!! As you said these Adafruit LCD are my favorite also but DAMN they are absolutely “flakey” until you get one set up correctly…. This screen as I mentioned in my extremely long rambling first post worked 2-3 times without touching any /boot/config.txt file (even speeding it up and lowering it running raspbian to make sure it was working properly) in which IT WORKED those 2-3 times… How odd lol hmmm…
Thank you sooooo much for your help this was a “battle” that was bugging me personally as I knew your image/kernel worked and the screen worked so I was the problem… I was using my adafruit 5 inch HDMI without sticky-fingers “9 button” and was going to purchase a few other screens but now….
Well thank you lol I’m relieved and can’t decide to leave this screen on a pi zero w or throw it on a pi 3 with sticky fingers with so much more cpu horsepower….
Anyways, I need to figure out setting up my wifi card(s) plus soldering on a lipo battery pack connected to an Adafruit PowerBoost 1300C all while trying to keep a SMALL form factor that’s discrete but fully capable while being able to slip in a pocket…
I owe you again thank you a million wheres the donation link on this site (waiting)…
Do you still provide a mirror or repo for these out of curiosity? I tried installing them with a pre-configured image you have available both have MSF I believe but no luck when I type in full or complete using kali-pi-“package” only the metapackages from offensive using kali-linux-“package name”…
Sorry for all the questions I am attemping to learn pen testing/network security with the intent to change career fields as a consultant or freelance in this vast world…
🙂January 27, 2018 at 1:09 am in reply to: Sticky Fingers w/ Adafruit 3.5+ worked 2 times NOW FAILURE repeated… #12576
Well, I attempted all day yesterday with a few pi 3’s and a few pi zero’s… same outcome unfortunately 🙁
I know your image and kernels are legit as the die hard trooper you are 🙂 plus I know this adafruit LCD is fine as again I checked it on a pi zero plus pi 3 using older raspbian jessie image I have. So that leaves the “error” or non stop FAILURE due to something I AM DOING…
I cannot remember finding a /boot/config.txt file on your images or any Kali images… I will look again as right now I am trying this process out again right now on 3 different pi’s tinkering with the initial setup before the re4son pi-tft-setup… Obviously I’m doing something wrong because the “/BOOT/CONFIG.TXT” file you have told me to adjust I am well aware of tweaking it to overclock the cpu AND adjust the speed of the 3.5 tft to 1600000 vs default 2500000 to help it not be so choppy. On Kali Linux arm images I have researched and even mounted the boot partion as FAT32 then created a file/folder for the /boot/config.txt to change attempt to change resolutions of the HDMI image which never worked out properly…
Anyways, time to start playing with this again as I am damn determined to get it to work. Hopefully it’s me overlooking the /boot/config.txt file as you mentioned with some changes!!! Last question, do you this logged in as root or as pi? Regardless, whenever I go through the pi-tft-setup everything is good until it ask “do you want text to display on the LCD” which at that moment it if I select yes it is all out of whack picture wise then reboots just as goofy looking…
Do you take donations or teach any courses online? I’d jump all over some “Udemy” type online courses from YOU in a heartbeat and I’m sure others would also… You are the Sensei of anything Raspberry Pi related to Kali from initial set up to way more advanced topics…
Much love from across the pond,
I think what you are referring to is the metapackage that contains EVERYTHING that offensive security feels to include in a package… So, inside of:
apt-get install kali-linux-complete *** simple error by re4son *** you should type in apt-get install kali-linux-all.
Just fyi, kali-linux-full as re4son has recommended has more than enough tools to get you overwhelmed but kali-linux-all is 6 GB LARGER in size than kali-full for a whopping 15 GB of add-on’s… Be prepared to spend a few hours even with google fiber with download speeds of ~ 900+ mbs a sec the “bottleneck” in speed of downloading/installing I believe is the pi’s cpu/hardware.
Lastly, not sure of your skill level but as for myself… Well let’s just say I’m a minor league playing getting all frustrated/irritated trying to install not only sticky fingers on my LCD but always install KALI-LINUX-ALL on my raspberry pi’s which I have no clue how to use the main “staple” tools/programs included in the sticky-fingers images or say kali-linux-top10…. So I’d recommend LESS at first then add on gradually or you will spend hours restarting builds daily…